As new research reveals we’re saturating our skin with chemicals, Scarlet investigates the damage potential of cosmetics

We women smother our bodies in an average 515 chemicals every day, according to research by natural deodorant-maker Bionsen. In our morning routine alone we’ll apply several different products, each containing a shocking average of 15 to 25 chemical ingredients. Scarlet got the low-down on the effects these chemicals may be having on our bodies…

TOXIC RISKS
Take a look at the back of any cosmetics packet and you’ll see a ream of chemicals listed – but that’s not even all of the ingredients in them. Natural cosmeticsmakers My Pure warn that over 700 chemicals can be used to make a fragranced product (a typical shampoo fragrance is created by blending 100). By law these chemicals don’t have to be listed; they fall under the catch-all term ‘parfum’. In tests, some of these chemicals have been linked to immune- and nervous-system toxicity and reduced fertility and the chance of a healthy, full-term pregnancy. Some medical reports have even linked daily cosmetic products to an increased risk in breast cancer – it’s thought that toxic chemicals such as aluminium, capable of altering DNA and present in cosmetics including deodorant, are absorbed into the skin or enter the body through nicks from shaving.

TESTING THE CLAIMS
According to an in-depth study by Breakthrough Breast Cancer, there’s no evidence showing that chemicals are absorbed into the body this way and no clear proof that chemicals in deodorants are actually toxic or a cause of breast cancer. However, Dr Barbara Olioso – an expert in industrial chemistry and member of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists – argues that tests performed at Reading University suggest otherwise. Breast cancer cells were incubated for four days both with and without isobutylparaben. Part of the paraben chemical family, isobutylparaben is one of the most commonly found chemicals in cosmetics. “Studies show parabens found in urine come from skin absorption rather than ingestion,” says Dr Olioso. “Doing an in-vitro test [studies done with cells or tissue] means the body’s complexities are taken out of the equation, but they’re still valid in showing there’s reason to be concerned about parabens. Results showed that after four days the breast cancer cells had grown more than the ones without parabens,” she says.

WHAT TO DO
As research remains contradictory, Sally Robinson, of Organic at Heart, which manufactures Soil Association-certified products, advises people to read and understand the ingredients in their cosmetics. Beauty products are regulated by the European Cosmetics Directive, implemented in the UK as the Cosmetic Products (Safety) Regulations. Each product is assessed for safety by scientists, and under EU law, must have full ingredient labelling – excluding the term ‘parfum’ – so consumers know what’s in their products. But it’s not necessarily the individual ingredients which pose a threat, says Sally. “The major issue isn’t the use of certain chemicals, it’s the amount of exposure [to them] that’s worrying; and mixing lots of different chemicals that, in combination, may be hugely dangerous. We currently just don’t know enough.”